When a Line Meets the Ocean

Markah Valley Trek

The Markah Valley trek took us a total of 8 days with one day to climb up Reponi Malai Ri. It can be achieved in 5 days if you walk consistently for 5/6hrs a day. We walked at quite a relaxed pace having plenty of time to stop along the way in the Himalayan villages. We didn’t hire a guide as we only carried small backpacks and used a guide book and map which were more than adequate to follow.

Day 1 - We took a taxi to Zinchan for ₹1,000 along the jeep road from Leh as we didn’t fancy walking the same route again. It was a very easy day taking 2hrs to reach Yurutse, as we wanted to go over the Ganda La pass (4,900m) to Shingo the next day. In Yurutse there was one rather large homestay where we met quite a few trekkers and guides.

Day 2 - Walking up to the pass seemed to take forever as it is a very gradual incline of nearly 900m. Along the trail we saw many marmots teetering around and huge birds of prey soaring above. It is recommended as one of the best places in the world to see a variety of unique birds that live at such high altitudes. When reaching the top of the pass we had a spectacular view of the Stok and Zanskar mountian range and the valley below. Damian even scrambled up to the peak of Ganda La Ri to have an even higher vantage of the arid mountain range. Shingo was just at the bottom of the valley and was an easy decent from the pass. It took us roughly 7hrs from Yurtse to Shingo.

Day 3 - Our next destination was Sara which was a rather long day as we decided we wanted to go further than Skyu. While having lunch in Skyu we saw a monastery built up high in the mountain that appeared to be crumbling away. The rest of the day consisted of a route along a jeep road, a forest trail and arid up and down pathways. A highlight was meeting a lovely crazy local guy selling drinks!

Day 4 - This was a very short day to Markah and was perfect timing as the weather changed for the worse as we arrived.  In the late afternoon once the weather had cleared we walked up to the old fort and monastery which overlooked the surrounding village. The fort was interesting to explore as you could see the remnants of doorways and cordoned off spaces people would have used before it was abandoned.

Day 5 - Another relatively easy day to reach Hankar and this was the first view we had of the huge Kang Yatse (6,400m) as we traversed up high along the edge of the valley. When arriving at Hankar we found a brilliant and secluded homestay with a traditional solar heated shower!

Day 6 - From Hankar to Nimaling we passed another fort nestled high in the mountains. This day was slightly more strenuous than the previous few days as there is a steep yet gradual climb to reach Nimaling plateau which resides at around 4,700m. Along the trail we saw many cute mountain mice and as we reached the plateau there was beautiful lake with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and of course Kang Yatse in the distance.

Day 7 - After reaching Nimaling base camp and being so close to the surrounding mountain peaks we decided to take a day to climb up Reponi Malai Ri. This 6,000m peak is one of few accessible mountains in the Himalayas that you don’t need to pay a penny to climb. Its situated on the opposite side of the glacier to Kang Yatse and overlooks the Nimaling campsite. We began walking directly up the steep incline towards Kang Yatse base camp and soon after reached a plateau that was deceptive. The path was still on a steady incline until we met a ridge line that overlooked the glacier and the entire valley below. At this moment we began to scramble up the rocky west face of the mountain. This was an exhausting climb as the rocks were loose and kept falling beneath our feet. It took maybe 2hrs to reach the top ridge line where we became somewhat dizzy from exhaustion and being at an altitude of 5,800m! We could see the mountain peak not far from us roughly a 1km away but as we both weren’t feeling too good and we were running out of time we decide to take in the views and head back down along the ridge way. The entire hike took us 7hrs, 5hrs to get up and just 2hrs down. If we had been more prepared and walked the ridge line from the bottom to the top then we could have probably reach the peak in the same amount of time. Unfortunately we made up our own route and spent a good part of our journey scrambling rocks and avoiding near death! Having said that we made it back in one piece and thoroughly enjoyed our little adventure.

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Day 8 - After two nights in Nimaling we started early to reach the Kongmaru la pass (5274m). For us this was the most effortless of the three passes, mainly because we were better acclimatised and had previously been to 5,800m. Once at the top we had a great view of Kang and the surrounding peaks but the view from Reponi Malai was more impressive due to there being an unobscured view of the mountains. The decent down from the pass was very steep and drops rapidly then continues steadily down to Shang Sumdo. Much of the trail follows a stream that runs down through the valley with some very interesting coloured rock formations. When we reached Shang Sumdo we met another hiker who we shared a truck with for ₹150 per person which was about a 30km ride to Leh.

Overall the Markah Valley trail is a fantastic way to experience hiking through some of the driest parts of the Himalayas. Due to it being situated on a high plateau in the rain shadow, it is protected from the monsoon which causes its dessert conditions. The landscape is barren yet it’s so incredible to witness the wildlife and communities of people that thrive in this part of the world.